Set among pine forests and trickling brooks, this long-time gastronomic beacon on the edge of the bucolic Wye Valley now serves a real taste of its surroundings. Mixing delicate, French technique with super-premium Welsh produce, Raymond Blanc protégé Chris Harrod employs a full-time forager who scours local hedgerows and streams for herbs, shoots and leaves that are the crowning glory of his unique take on modern Welsh cooking. In the cosy, low-ceiling, black-beamed dining room, local asparagus might be paired with fiddlehead fern shoots, hogweed and mead foam in spring, while Huntsman farm suckling pig appears as loin, braised belly and crispy jowl alongside bittersweet hogweed buds, young garlic and artichokes. Expect pineapple weed in a blackcurrant and camomile dessert or ground elder and sea herbs from the Severn estuary with steamed turbot, smoked roe and Jersey royals. Eight luxury bedrooms mean everyone can dip into the impressive wine list or try Chris’s own pine-infused gin, although breakfast, with its homemade jams and preserves, is an even bigger reason to hang around. The set lunch is a bargain, while service is warm and courteous.